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Eastside Cruisers • View topic - LXCHEV's Torana

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Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 283 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 ... 29  Next
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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:46 am 
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OH yeah! Awesome!!!!

Can't wait to see this one on the road again!


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:38 am 
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Have you got all the other bits and pieces yet to be able to get it all back together? Or do you still need to order that?

How long has it been off the road for now? It'd be great if we are both up and running again at the same time and we can go on "Engine Break-in" cruises!


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:41 am 
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Guys I can't wait either.

I've got most of the new bits now, will post more pics tonight. Still need a few small things like timing chain etc (just minor items).

Engine break-in cruises would be awesome! I hope I can get mine together quick enough.

Been off the road since April 2010, so approaching 18 months.


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:19 pm 
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Hi Brett
is this a new combo or a temporary engine
is it still 383 or something diff
can you re use any old parts?
ISO


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:39 pm 
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Yep completely new combo. I gave up on the idea of the 'temporary' engine, as it wasn't going to be worth the effort.

So the new combo will actually be a 381 (20 thou over bore), whereas a traditional 383 is based upon a 30 thou over bore.
This block was too good to go to 30 thou just for the sake of it. Going to 20 thou, just meant I was forced into using SRP pistons (which I wanted anyway). Most other piston manufacturer's don't offer anything.

I was going to re-use my old 400 crank (externally balanced), but you add up crack testing (for piece of mind), and possible machining costs, and once again, it's not worth it!! I got my hands on a brand new internally balanced SCAT 9000 series crank for around $280, ready to go.

So as far as the bottom-end goes now, I'm no longer re-using any old parts. But I will re-use everything else (heads, intake, sump, accessories etc).


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 2:17 pm 
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Awesome cant wait to see the blue beast up and going , no need to deburr it mate , there is a specific pain you can apply on the inside for improving oil flow , only deburr sh*t to avoid cracks developing.


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 2:28 pm 
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Yeah we're not getting real fussy - mainly just cleaned up the real daggy areas in the corners. I will be painting it later on. Which paint do people prefer these days? The silver stuff or the red stuff?


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:07 pm 
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Looking like progress is being made. Mmmm Nice and shiny, hope it falls all in to place soon for you mate.


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:59 pm 
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Awesome to see you're making progress. :shock: Wow 18 months.


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 Post subject: Re: LXCHEV's Torana
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:07 pm 
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Sometimes it doesn't feel like 18 months, yet other times it feels like 5 years! haha.

For those who love tech specs, read on...

After a lot of research, and still very much on a tight budget, these are the parts I ended up selecting.. nothing fancy, but still very good quality gear..

Crankshaft:
Cast-iron SCAT 9000 'Pro-Comp' series, internally balanced.







Rods:
Forged SCAT 4340 'Pro-Comp' series 6" I-beams with ARP 7/16" cap screws.
These are specifically profiled for stroker clearance (check out the shape - they look awesome!)
Absolutely superior to any old factory I-beam.





Pistons:
The only expensive item I've bought so far... SRP 0.020" forged stroker flat tops. Sexy looking pistons!
They're forged from 4032 low expansion high silicon aluminium alloy so will be a nice street friendly piston.





We also found some very nice benefits of the later model block I'm using too... the crank dropped straight in, no clearancing required (as expected), but it's when the rods were dummied up that we found the block only needs an absolute tickle (old blocks require huge amounts of grinding). So it's all working out nicely so far.


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